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APANECA |
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A short leg further along the road from Juayúa is another quiet and
charming mountain town, APANECA , founded by Pedro de Alvarado in the
mid-sixteenth century. The town retains an air of friendly tranquillity,
despite being popular with weekend visitors and home to one of the best-known
restaurants in the country, La Cocina de mi Abuela , which draws wealthy
San Salvadoreans and foreign residents alike. During the week, you're
likely to have the place - and the wonderful surrounding mountain
scenery - to yourself.
The town is easily accessible by bus from both Sonsonate (1hr 30min) and
Ahuachapán (1hr). The best-quality accommodation is at the Cabañas de
Apaneca (tel 450 5106, fax 450 5137; US$40-60), which has twelve
comfortable wood cabins set in lush gardens overlooking the mountain
slopes, and a good on-site restaurant (for which you should book ahead
at weekends and holidays). There are two new hostels , located at
opposite ends of the town (both are well signposted from the Parque):
the Hostal Rural Las Orquídeas (tel 433 0061; US$10-15) has four clean,
simple rooms with hot water - book in advance at weekends; the Hostal
Rural Las Ninfas is very similar. The best place to eat is La Cocina de
mi Abuela (11.30am-5pm Sat & Sun only; tel 450 5203 ext 301), housed in
a beautifully decorated colonial-era house. The nicest tables are on the
covered veranda at the back, with scenic views. Alternatively, the
Restaurante Fonda Lamatepec , near the Cabañas de Apaneca , also serves
excellent, if pricey, Salvadorean cuisine in a fine setting - fish fresh
from Laguna Verde will set you back about US$8. Otherwise, eating
options in town are limited to the row of friendly little comedores
opposite the church.
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