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SUCHITOTO |
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 Set amid beautiful rolling countryside 18km east of Aguilares, near
the site of a pre-Columbian Pipil town, SUCHITOTO lies on a small ridge
above the southern edge of Lago de Suchitlán . The town's height of
glory came when the original Villa San Salvador was located near here in
1528. In the many years since the capital was relocated, life has
generally been quiet, except during the 1980s, when the area became the
scene of bitter fighting as the army struggled to dislodge the FMLN
guerrillas from their mountain strongholds in the area. The roads up and
around Cerro Guazapo still bear the crumbling remains of the trenches
and dugouts used by both sides, now quietly submerged beneath green
vegetation.
Today, Suchitoto (the Nahuatl name means "city of birds and flowers") is
experiencing a renaissance, having been designated a national site of
cultural heritage in 1997. It's a small and friendly place and makes for
a relaxing getaway from San Salvador, as well as boasting some of the
finest remaining examples of colonial architecture in the country, with
low, red-tiled adobe houses stretching along the town's streets. In the
centre, the whitewashed Iglesia Santa Lucía - now being slowly but
extensively restored - is worth a look, with a particularly fine wooden
altar. The Teatro de las Ruinas is currently under reconstruction but is
planned to host music, dance and cultural events when it opens again
shortly. The Museo de Alejandro Cotto (US$3.50) is a beautifully
restored colonial house replete with a fine collection of local
paintings, sculpture, indigenous artefacts and musical instruments. The
friendly Casa de Cultura (Mon-Fri; free), opposite the church, has
displays on local history and can give information on walks in the area.
The shaded Parque San Martín , a couple of blocks east of the church,
commands stunning and seemingly endless views across the blue waters of
the lake; there's a small kiosk in the park and it makes a great spot to
sit with a cold drink and enjoy the scenery. From the east and north
ends of town, paths lead down to the lake shore, where you can swim, and
where a couple of small bars make good spots for a relaxing lakeside
beer. A small boat sometimes runs around the lake and to the small
island in the middle, or local fishermen may be persuaded to take you
out onto the water - the going rate is US$8-10, but be prepared to
bargain.
Some 8km south of Suchitoto are the remains of San Salvador Cuidad Vieja
, the original capital of El Salvador, founded in 1528, and now one of
the most important archeological sites in the country - though there's
not much to see as yet, and most of the remains are still buried under
layers of earth. Ten minutes from Suchitoto by car, at kilometre 34.8 on
the Carretera San Martín, the renovated hacienda Güancora La Bermuda (tel
226 1839; US$25-40) offers a small range of excellent accommodation set
amid magnificent gardens complete with swimming pool; there's also some
fine walking in the area.
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